![]() ![]() Nowadays, sandpaper is made from cloth or paper backing material coated with abrasive particles like silicon carbide or aluminum oxide. If the floor is in bad shape, you will probably want to start with a 30 or 24-grit cut for the first test cut.Sandpaper is a commonly used home improvement product. If it’s not completely bare and flat, try progressively more aggressive cuts in different inconspicuous areas of the floor until you find the cut that leaves it bare and clean. If it is, that means that you can sand the floor with the 40-60-100 sequence. Start with a 40-grit cut and see if the section of the floor is completely bare and flat after your pass. If the floor is in good shape, start with the most common sequence, which is 40-60-100. Make sure to do this in an inconspicuous location. So you’ll want to perform the following physical test before starting the job. If the floor is old, very hard, or has residual finish, it can be a bit trickier to determine the right sequence. For example, if you’d like the finish grit to be 80, your sequence can be 36-50-80. When sanding a new floor, you’ll often want to define the finest grade you want to use and then work backwards, skipping a grade of grit between each sanding. This will ensure the smoothest results possible. ![]() Remember to sweep and clean the floor before you start sanding AND in between each grit. Note that there are other grits available, including 30, 40, 50, and 120. Can take out the scratch from 120-grit or 100-grit sandpaper if necessary. This is usually the final grit for maple, birch, or other particularly hard woods, and for any floor that you would like to stain.ġ50 grit: Extremely fine sandpaper. This is usually the final grit for most standard hardwood floors.ġ00 grit: Takes out 60 or 80 grit scratch. Ĩ0 grit: Takes out the scratch from 60-grit sandpaper. This grit takes out the scratch from 36-grit sandpaper, but does not remove much wood. This grit should remove all over wood and make the floor flat.Ħ0 grit: Not intended to be used as a starting grit. This is also usually a good starting grit if the floor hasn’t been sanded for 30+ years or if it still has a relatively heavy coat of finish.ģ6 grit: A good starting grit for newly installed floors or floors without finish but have a lot of over wood. swirl marks) in the wood, or if the finish has worn down to the wood in certain areas. ![]() You will remove a lot of wood stock even when sanding the hardest of wood floor species.Ģ4 grit: Use 24-grit sandpaper if there are sander flaws (e.g. a floor that was underneath carpet) or several coats of paint.ġ6 grit: Use as the starting grit for floors with shellac finishes, single layers of paint, or some very hard floors, like maple.Ģ0 grit: Use when there is a good deal of flattening of the floor needed. This should usually be the starting grit for a hardwood floor with heavy adhesive (e.g. Available grits and when to use themġ2 grit: This is one of the coarsest grits available. How do you choose the correct sanding sequence? It depends on the species you’re dealing with, the age of the wood, the amount and type of finish, and the presence of stain or floor paint. ![]() Click hereto browse our selection of sanding abrasives. But if you choose the correct sanding sequence, most floors just need three passes with the big machine to acquire a smooth finish. Sometimes it takes more than just three grits to achieve a smoothly sanded floor. The floor will accept the finish evenly and look great. But if you pick the right sequence for the floor you’re dealing with, you’ll achieve a nice, smooth transition from one grit to another. ![]()
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